A Journey Through Nature and Adventure
Agua Verde, a hidden gem on the Sea of Cortez, welcomed us with breathtaking beauty and unforgettable moments. As we sailed into the bay, the scene unfolded like a dream. The water, a striking crystal-clear turquoise, shimmered in the sunlight, promising days of adventure and tranquility. Our entry was marked by the sight of Roca Solitaria, a majestic pinnacle of rock rising from the sea, its surface turned white by countless seabirds. This natural wonder seemed to stand guard at the bay’s entrance, a reminder of the wildness of this place. But the beauty didn’t stop there: just outside the bay’s entrance, we were treated to a magical sight: a gray whale gracefully surfacing, a rare moment that felt like a personal welcome.
Finding Tranquility
However, the strong northerly winds of the past few days left us with limited choices for anchoring. The more expansive southern portion of the bay was filled with large swells, reminiscent of the uncomfortable conditions we had faced at Bahia Ballandra. Initially, we anchored cautiously outside the more protected area, wary of the swing room as other boats took up the more protected spots. But soon, we realized we had been too cautious.
After observing the calmness of the nearby boats, we decided to join them, moving to a more sheltered spot with the sea conditions vastly improved transforming the bay into a tranquil haven and we were able to settle in for a much need good night sleep.
Beneath the Surface: Snorkeling in a Vibrant Underwater World
As the sun rose the following day, the waters around our boat came alive with schools of fish darting beneath the surface. We couldn’t resist the allure of the sea, so we hopped into our dinghy and headed to the rocky southeastern spot in the bay. After donning our wetsuits, we plunged into the water to snorkel, greeted by a vibrant underwater world. Eels peeked out from dark crevices while colorful tropical fish danced around rock and coral outcroppings, their vivid colors contrasting against the earthy backdrop of rocks. The south side of the anchorage revealed a hidden paradise beneath the waves—every rock and reef teeming with life, a vivid reminder of the ocean’s abundance and why the Sea of Cortez is dubbed the aquarium of the sea.
Back on the boat, we were delighted to spot our friends Brian and Sue aboard their sailboat, Calibris. They had arrived and anchored just in front of us. Last we had heard, they were planning to sail further south to Barra De Navidad. Eager to catch up, we dinghied over, but what we thought would be a cheerful reunion quickly turned somber as they recounted a life-changing accident. Brian had tragically lost his right index finger in a mishap with their windlass. For a gifted guitarist, the injury was far more than just physical; it was a heartbreaking blow to his passion. Thankfully, Sue, a nurse practitioner, had provided immediate care and was able to get Brian to shore and summon a driver to take them to the nearest hospital in time for emergency medical care. As we listened to their story, I felt humbled, reflecting on the many risks that come with life on the water. Despite the hardship, their spirits remained high, a powerful testament to the resilience needed for life at sea.
A Hike Through History and Nature’s Contrast
Adventure awaited the next morning as we set off on an exhilarating hike to explore the painted cliffs are reported as one of the must-see in the area. The dusty, rocky hillside rose steeply from the anchorage, and we scrambled up, eager to see the ancient cave paintings rumored to be hidden in the cliffs.
Along the way, we passed by an old cemetery, its well-worn headstones silently telling tales of those who had come before us.
The path eventually led us into a small oasis, a stark contrast to the arid rugged Baja surroundings. A natural spring-fed pond, framed by tall palm trees, and lush foliage created a peaceful retreat. The stream that trickled from it meandered toward a beach opposite the anchorage leading us onward to the beach, where footprints in the sand guided us toward the cliffs we sought. We followed the footpath just off the beach that led to the ascending narrow cliff trial.
As we approached the cliffs, the sun bore down on us as we climbed the narrow, rocky path to the cliffside. The jagged rock cliff jutted out into the path with accompanying loose stones making the final climb to the painted caves challenging. Yet, the effort was worth it. The cave paintings, simple, red handprints, were intriguing. Their authenticity is questionable, but that doesn’t detract from their mystery. The panoramic view from the cliffs, gazing out over the Sea of Cortez surrounding the nearby islands, was a reward in itself.
We scrambled back down the cliffside, racing against time to meet our friends for lunch. Our reward for the strenuous hike was an afternoon spent indulging in fresh shrimp tacos at a beachside palapa. I’ve eaten my fair share of tacos, but these were something else entirely. The succulent shrimp, caught just hours before, were plump, breaded, and perfectly seasoned, nestled in handmade tortillas prepped as we waited. They were simply unforgettable. Washed down with a cold cerveza, it was a meal I won’t soon forget.
Farewell to Agua Verde
As our time in Agua Verde came to an end, the bay gifted us one final farewell. In the early hours of the morning, dolphins circled the anchorage as they did the prior evening. They leaped from the water, playful and graceful, as they feasted on the schools of fish that swarmed around our boats. It felt like a special goodbye, a final reminder of the magic this place held.
With a favorable weather window opening, many of the boats in the anchorage, including ours, prepared to raise anchor. We were bound for Los Gatos, another adventure just around the bend a few short hours south. But as we sailed away from Agua Verde, I couldn’t help but feel a pang of sadness. This place, with its clear waters, towering cliffs, unique landmarks, and unforgettable terrain, had left its mark on me.
Agua Verde, with its painted cliffs, serene waters, and a rugged landscape that marries exploration with peace, will stay with me. As always, it’s not just the places we visit, but the memories we make along the way that leave the most lasting imprint.
